When we founded Starks back in 2013 the beard craze was just picking up a head of steam. Many thought it would be a passing trend, but we could tell from being on the front lines that it was here to stay. Business casual was getting… well… more casual, and men were beginning to experiment with their look more than ever. Whether it was tattoos or funky watches, times were changing, and the corporate man was finally allowed to walk into the office with a beard that didn’t resemble Ben Bernanke’s. Wearing a tie, cufflinks, and being clean-shaven for work was becoming a thing of the past. At Starks we were servicing a ton of corporate clients and taking notice. Looking ahead, it certainly seems Covid isn’t reversing any of these trends as people grapple with their hair and beards during lockdown without the hand of a professional. Over the years I’ve learned no matter how much a certain style of beard is meant to look unruly or unkept, it can and should be maintained.
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There’s an art to this type of maintenance and I sat down with my longest tenured employee Ann-Marie Zakkak, who has been with Starks since opening day back in 2013, for some advice on beard styles and maintenance.
“There’s a difference between a proper five o’clock shadow and one that’s more like a nine o’clock shadow” said Ann-Marie, who happens to be a big fan of the look, if executed properly. She advised that the typical beard trimmer with no guard can be used every other day to maintain this look. She also says you should not line up a five o’clock shadow with a razor, as the look is meant to be a little rebellious.
With longer beards Ann strongly recommends heading to the barbershop for proper maintenance. She says you can keep your beard healthy and comfortable with the right products, but when trimming a longer beard “one mistake can reverse months of hard work growing your grizzly masterpiece.” She walked me through the process of trimming a long beard, and it revealed exactly that. She starts by trimming the wall, or the sides of the cheek and the beard itself using a set of adjustable clippers (the same professional set of clippers she would use for a haircut). This requires a lot of skill because there is a certain downward angle that needs to be maintained to ensure you don’t ruin the beard’s shape. As much as it would be comfortable for the DIY’er to trim working upwards, she says “that will grab too much hair and most likely take out a chunk.” She uses the large mirror at her station to replicate the other side, constantly cross-checking her work, and then moves onto the front, masterfully shaping the beard into the desired look. After the length has been trimmed, she switches tools to a T-liner or razor to line up the beard. Lining up a beard is some of the most precise work a barber does she says, with very little room for error.
Now, just because you rely on the hands of a professional doesn’t mean that there isn’t maintenance you can (and should) do at home to keep your beard healthy and looking it’s best in between services. “Beard oil is an absolute must that I recommend to all of my clients with facial hair. It softens the beard and gives it a nice fragrance, but contrary to popular belief, it does something even more important… It moisturizes the skin under the beard”. Ann went on to explain how keeping the skin underneath hydrated is the key to avoiding the dreaded Beardruff.
BEARDRUFF /ˈbird/ [ r ]uff
The result of a buildup of dead skin cells. Beardruff appears when the skin sheds faster than normal, resulting in a noticeable collection of snowflake-like skin cell clusters.
Sorry folks, I had to look that one up. Sometimes (oftentimes) my staff knows a lot more than I do about grooming. I’m lucky to be surrounded by such a talented team.
In addition to Beard Oil, Ann recommends having a good beard brush (or comb depending on the length of your beard). She said you should give it a good brush every morning to detangle it. “Sometimes your beard doesn’t look too tangled but the longer you leave it the harder it will be to untangle it.” Lastly, beard hair should be shampooed and conditioned like the hair on top of your head. At Starks we are currently prototyping a beard wash & conditioner system that will launch this spring for this exact reason.
So what type of beard is right for you? “It really depends on the shape of your face and the type of hair you have. Let’s not forget what’s trendy”. I surveyed Ann for her top styles for 2021 and who should be wearing them and here’s what I got:
Short
Five O’clock Shadow – Wear this if you have medium to thick hair and don’t want something too high maintenance. Make sure you don’t let it grow into the “whiskery” stage, keep it at stubble length, and don’t line it up. If your hair grows in patches you want to avoid this look.
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Medium
High Boxed Beard – This one is corporate approved but can have a hint of hipster to it if you lengthen the chin area. It’s basically a quarter to half inch length beard all the way around. Use rigid lines to complete the look and keep them high on the cheek. This one can and should be lined up with a liner or razor. At Starks we would use a straight razor, the service is known as Straight Razor Detailing.
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Long
Verdi – This longer beard is not for the faint of heart. It’s a 3 to 4 inch length beard with a long moustache. It takes several months to grow from scratch but certainly makes a statement. This beard is rounded and definitely needs to be trimmed by a professional from time to time. The moustache looks best styled/twirled, with a clay or beard wax.
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There’s something primal about a beard that can take your style in a totally different direction unlike anything else. If you’re considering this new and bold look, consult your barber for the right approach. Ann-Marie says “keep it maintained and you won’t have to sacrifice comfort for style.”
Here’s to looking our best in 2021!
Steve Tallis is a thought leader in men’s grooming and franchising. He routinely contributes to style and business publications to promote wellness and the growing brand he co-founded almost ten years ago. For more information head to StarksBarberCompany.com.